the big departure!

Making the last stitch count; 

Chris sewing on expedition patches.

Hello all, Justene here. If you've been wondering where in the world I've been, don't fret, I'm still here. Not in the background, but on the sidelines. Cheering on my Christopher as he prepares for his trip to Alaska, a trip of a lifetime. A friend recently asked me why I'm not going with him, I told her that I didn't think I was ready to spend three weeks on a glacier and climb one of the harder routes on the  biggest and coldest mountain in North America, the grand and beautiful Denali. Nope, not ready for that this year, but you can bet I'll be here doing my thing...call me the training log photographer, expedition meal organizer and the sleeping bag tester person. Yep that's me, the one trying to keep up with Chris on my bike to take pictures of him running, the one in the kitchen who's up to her eyeballs in sprouted buckwheat and chickpeas, and the one enjoying the new Sierra Designs sleeping bag. You know what they say, "Behind every man is a good woman...making dehydrated soup mixes??" Hmm, that didn't come out right, but whatever you get the picture, I am supportive in many ways.
It's inspiring to see Chris do all that he does to train for a trip like this. His endurance and stamina have always impressed me, I am confident that he and his climbing partner will reach their goal for the trip with strong bodies and strong minds.
Chris flies out this afternoon, his bags are stuffed full of warm clothes and good food, so stuffed in fact, that he will be wearing his mountaineering boots on the plane.
And me... I'll be here, me and the cat, holdin' down the fort.
Send love and good vibes to Chris and Chip as them embark on this amazing adventure. Think of them slogging their way up to base camp at 14,000 feet towing all of their gear on sleds, settling in to life on the glacier, acclimatizing,  making sweet turns down the Messner couloir and completing what they came to do; climb the Cassin Ridge on Denali.

good for -20 degrees, so cozy, wouldn't want to get
 out of this in the middle of the night to pee!

Sprouted chickpeas (garbanzos), sprouting makes
them more nutritious and easily digestible.

The Vita-mix we borrowed from a friend saved the day!
We were able to grind the chickpeas into a flour for the soups. 

After making the chickpea flour, we mixed it in with dehydrated veggies, salt, pepper, curry powder, cayenne and chilli powder (Chris decided spicy foods for cold weather would be key), and voila we had a nutritious and flavourful backcountry soup!

How many jars of sprouted buckwheat does it take to climb Denali?

sprouted buckwheat g-raw-nola!

G-raw-nola Recipe
We made HUGE batches of this stuff over the last week and pretty much just estimated the ingredient amounts as we went along, here's what's in it...

• sprouted buckwheat (takes a 2-3 days)
• soaked sunflower seeds
• soaked pumpkin seeds
• sprouted almonds (soak overnight to sprout)
• raisins
• chopped dried apricots
• shredded unsweetened coconut
• sweetener of your choice, honey, agave, maple syrup

Mix all ingredients evenly and spread on dehydrator sheets, dry for 8-10 hours.

We later added in hemp hearts and chia seeds, both packed with omega 3's and 6's, fiber, antioxidants and vitamins... great for sustained energy.

A huge thank you to Navitas for hooking Chris up with all of his snacks and trail food.

MUCHAS GRACIAS  goes out to all of the awesome and generous sponsors:

Power Snacks, trail mixes, goldenberries, chia seeds and cashews from Navitas Naturals.

Mate Factor provided enough yerba mate for the whole basecamp! 

Revo eyewear hooked Chris up with a slick pair of shades for perfect for snow travel.

Manitoba Harvest showed their support in all the hemp hearts Chris will need for staying strong!

Chris's pockets will be full of supergreens energy bars and Amazing Meal pouches thanks to the folks from Amazing Grass! 

Chris will be sporting his barometer/altimeter watch from Highgear.

Stats:

Denali:
20, 320 highest peak in North America
Meaning: the native Athabascan word meaning "The Great One"

Cassin Ridge:
9000 vertical feet
First climbed in 1961 by the famed Italian climber Riccardo Cassin.
Speed record for climbing the Cassin: 14 hours, 40 minutes.
Chris and Chip will attempt to climb the route in 20 hours.
Difficulty: Alaska Grade 5, 5.8, AI4 (alpine ice)

All the gear and food,
you never know when you may need flip-flops on the glacier.

Leona, holding down the couch. 

Sacajawea Middle School

Out in front of Sacajawea Middle School at 8am.
Getting kids psyched on BIKES!!!

Hello boys and girls.  We're here to talk to you today about Bike to School Week.  That's right, it's national Bike to School Week, along with Bike to Work Week, and National Bike Month.

Justene and I just did two presentations at Sacajawea Middle School here in Bozeman.  We brought in our bicycles and gave a talk and a slide show about our human-powered mountaineering adventures.

Kids are awesome!!!  I love it when I can ask a group of 6th graders how many of them own a bicycle and all of the kids raise there hands with excitement.  Now that's one reason bikes are way cooler than cars.  Every kid should own a bike.  And every person should own a bike.  And just think if every person owned a car;  we'd all be dying of noxious poisons and we'd never know anything about blue skies.

So go ride a bike.  Ride it to work.  Ride to the store.  Ride to your friends house, or out to dinner.  Ride across town when you have to go there.  You'll like it.  People will like you for it, and it becomes contagious.  It doesn't matter if you have to wear nice cloths to work, set a new trend, be somebody real.  Be an individual that sets an example that says, "I care about more things than a fake image and money.  I care about you, I care about your family, I care about your little kids and the frogs that they play with.  I care about being healthy and believe that we have the power to change the world."

So please go ride a bike, and leave your car dormant for a week or two.  You'll be glad that you did, and you'll live longer, and you'll be giving your grandkids an extra week of clean oxygen.  Not to mention screwing the government at the same time.  What more reasons do you want???

6th graders at Sacajawea Middle School

Holistic Life Coaching

We have recently added a new page "Holistic Life Coaching" to our blog (on the right>) in response to all the people that want to know more about how we do what we do, and how we can help them achieve a more holistic approach to life, well being, and peace of mind.

"Life coaching with an exciting focus on outdoor recreation and a connection to nature."

Being on top of the world. Cliche?

Here at Human-Powered Mountaineers, we get a lot of people asking us questions about diet, fitness, and personal heath care, and we are glad to answer your questions.  Please call or email us at any time, free of charge.

We also offer personal life coaching for those of you who would like to learn more about maintaining a holistic lifestyle and get on track to finding the amazing benefits of living in balance with one's own self.

Holistic health care, and the road to self healing, are among the most powerful tools for self transformation available in our world today.  Becoming aware of your physical, emotional, and spiritual self will bring you lasting peace of mind and well being.

Our classes are geared for people who want to slow their lives down from the rush rush of daily life, create physical and mental well being, and find a lasting sense of inner peace.  We know how hard it can be to let go of self inflicted stress and social and material attachment. We'll help you find the right steps to accomplish your goals and be successful while at the same time being less competitive with your self and learning to enjoy the process of life.

Cost: $20-$60 an hour, pay what you can sliding scale.

Options range from

• Vegan diet for optimum sports nutrition and weight loss.
• Dietary needs; food allergies and sensitivities like gluten free, dairy free, 
• Meal planning, shopping trips, food preparation classes 
• Raw food; understanding why we need more fresh raw food in our diets.
• Health care; understanding the truth behind "western diseases".  We can help you find the correct healing modality that is often less expensive and more positive
• Healing arts; food as medicine, personal health care, preventative health care, homeopathy, herbal medicine, daily exercise, and reduce stress.
• Community involvement; gardening, volunteering, group bike rides, etc.
• Yoga; learn about what classes are right for you and where you can find the perfect studio.
• Cycling; the joys of long distance cycling, biking to work, what gear you need and how to make it affordable, and how to go on the trip of a lifetime.
• Meditation OOOMMMMMMM.  Learn to watch your thoughts pass through your mind without attachment to them.  Meditation teaches us that we are not our thoughts and we do not have to be controlled by the endless chatter in our minds.
• Running.  Become injury free runners again.  Learn about proper technique and the find the right footwear to strengthen your feet and ankles.  
• Hiking; mountain walks, plant and animal identification, animal symbolism.  Learn how to interpret the world around you and how the natural world is communicating with you everyday.

We have learned through our own experiences that life is tricky.  By learning to understand who you are on a deeper level, and staying true to your self and connected to the natural world around you, life becomes more simple and reveals purpose and answers.

Eating healthy can be the first step in making positive change.  Changing your diet can change both how you look and feel physically.  To how you feel mentally and emotionally.  Healthy eating is also one of the best ways you can participate in global healing, both for your self and for the planet.  It is no wonder why so many people feel so out of touch with themselves and the world around us.  When we eat food that is unhealthy for us and the environment, we feel that we are powerless against all the wrongs in the world.  Changing your diet to include more healthy plant-based organic foods will give you a sense of personal empowerment and connection to the healing revolution that is taking place in the world around you.

Become part of the holistic healing revolution, and empower yourself to become the best you can be.

Justene Sweet, vegan athlete, super rad chica.

With all the people out there wanting to get in shape and get healthy, it's good for to you know that you have friends out there supporting.  Sometimes all you need is the right team and the right amount of support from people around you to keep you going and help you stay motivated and try new things together.

One of my new on-line friends Christine Chiu has come up with a cool new way to track your fitness level and stay motivated.  She started a new web site game called SLIM KICKER that you can down load onto your phone that helps you track your weekly fitness routine.  There are points and rewards for everything from eating healthy food to going for a walk or a run.  You can also meet other people and be apart of your own cyber team to help you stay on track. 

Just look up http://slimkicker.com/challenges 

Post Holes

Ever had the chance to post hole for miles up a hill by yourself?  Yes, no, didn't care to?  Well it's tons of fun.  Just like it sounds.

What is post holing, for those of us who aren't savvy in ski bumming lingo.  Post holing is when your hiking in deep snow and each step creates a post hole to put your body into.  Your leg is the post and the snow is the hole.

In fact I was having just as much fun as the caterpillar I saw slinking across the snow field the other day in the middle of the Mount Cowan Cirque.  I thought to myself that maybe I should go over there and pick him up and carry him over to the nearest trees.  I also thought how crazy it was to see this little guy at this high elevation this time of year.  Then I remembered that I'd seen a quite a few butterflies out up here as well, and right then I saw another butterfly.  Cool, I thought.  This is cool.  Then I realized that my plight at attempting to climb this couloir was much like the plight of the little caterpillar.  So I honoured the plight of the little caterpillar and stood there and just watched him as he made his way towards the nearest grouping of small trees.  Then I continued plodding through the snow towards the couloir.

22 miles, 5500 vertical feet, and 15 hours later I was back at my car.  It was dark and I was sure that Justene was in bed already, watching a movie without me.

Elbow Lake in the Beartooth Mountains. 

Left to right; Enie, Meenie, Minie, and Mo.  I'm not sure who
named these sub-peaks in the Mount Cowan Cirque, but
they sure are easy to remember.

One of my favourite past times, drinking fresh water in the Mountains.

Sure enough, when I got home I can hear the faint hello from Miss Sweet in the bedroom. Laying there calmly watching a movie without me.  Perfect I thought, she's not worried at all.

Looking back down the couloir.
Climbers never ask the question "Why do you climb?", and the only
real answers are what we see and feel while we are up there,
and you can't explain that to anyone else but your self.

Elk are symbols for stamina, and hitting ones stride.
 8 is the number for infinite.
Paying attention to how the natural world is communicating to you is key.

When I left home at 5am to go on this climb, I brought an orange, an apple, and two energy bars.  Not very much food for a 15 hour climb, but that was the plan.  I had to do it.  I had to push myself in every way possible, and running out of food half way through the day was one of the ways I was going to train my body run more efficiently.  And it worked.
I ran out of food at 4pm where I ate the apple standing at the top of the couloir.  Now I have an eleven mile descent through snow, mud, and beautiful forest.  Crazy as it sounds, I felt good about this.  I felt that my diet and my training were paying off, and if I'm going to be able to push myself to new levels, then this is how I'm going to do it.  So off I went, butt glissading down the other side of the couloir that was a lot less steep than the side I had climbed up.
Half way down the couloir I got out of control and started sliding to fast to control my speed and my direction.  I got spun around onto my back and was bouncing off the snow, breakdancing down an old avalanche path.  Snow was flying all around me as I blasted through it.  Man that was fun.  Can we do it again, PLEASE!!!
At about 8pm I hit my stride.  And that was when I came around the corner and saw the Elk.

Training Log #3

Yes it's cold, and yes there is shrinkage. 

What do ice baths and Hugh Hefner have in common?
I'm not sure, I thought you might know.

No, but seriously.  Ice baths?  And I'm not talking about having to take a cold shower because of some very excited erectile function.  No I'm talking about getting into a bath tub with cold water and ice cubes for 10 minutes so that I can go work for 8 hours of house painting right after a fast 6 mile mountain run.  Ouch baby!!!

It feels so good once u get out and stretch a little.  In fact it feels great and I can work for 8 hours, climbing up and down ladders and on my feet all day with more energy after a good run than without one.  The ice bath helps relieve sore muscles by reducing any swelling that might occur.

7:30am

8:30am

my 9to5
The life of the professional dirtbag rock climber.  Got sponsors?

Dirt-bag   noun  \'dert-bag\

1. A bag of dirt
2. A dirty, unkept, or contemptible person
3. A person that climbs more often than works and lives in a tent or car for much of the year.

In the world of professional climbers, "the Dirtbag" holds the greatest title.  It's like a badge of honour to wear the name dirtbag.  Because lets face it.  Most of us are missing that all important trust fund to travel around the world and go climb at all the hot new crags.  

So the Dirtbag is the guy or gal that has said "I've had enough, I'm going climbing for 6 months [a year], and I'm not interested in finishing college right now, or buying a house.  I don't care, I'll eat peanut butter until it runs out and then I'll just eat peanuts.  

When I met Lynn Hill (one of the best climbers in the world, and a ninja) in the Buttermilks in Bishop CA, I had the opportunity to climb with her for a few hours.  She told me stories of living for an entire summer in Yosemite Valley on $50 bucks.  Granted that was in the early 80's, but that is rad, and that is how she became a total dirtbag ninja.

Meet me at Your Yoga

Training blog #2

3 of my favourite teachers Courtney, Crystal, and Kate
at Your Yoga

I recently just completed my first yoga challenge at the Your Yoga studio in Bozeman.  The challenge is a 6 week course that costs $50,  and the goal is to complete 30 classes in those six weeks.   At $50 the challenge is the next cheapest thing to free yoga.  That's $8 a week for unlimited yoga at a great studio that offers a plethera of super rad classes ranging from a 90 minute intense work out, to the total relaxation of a yin (stillness) class that will teach you how to breathe deeply and consciously.

Your Yoga has also been a great way for Justene and I to get involved with members of our yoga community here in Bozangles.  We've held raw food classes at the studio, and made a ton of new friends that are always up for doing new and exciting things (like rock climbing).

Justene and Alice, our Yin yogi.

Classes at Your Yoga start at only $5

• Athanga
• Your Yoga Flow
• Yin/Restorative
• Meditation
• Hatha
• Hot Fusion
• Vinyasa
• Prana Flow
• 26&2 
• Hip Hop Yoga

There are also massage practitioners in the studio.  Jesse May offers massage and Cranial Sacral therapy, and Courtney offers Thai Body Work.

Jesse May opening my heart chakra in a Cranial Sacral session

Yoga has really helped me become a stronger person. Where as lifting heavy weight has only helped me become a bigger person (dork)...  That's right, I can be a dork too.  Sometimes a bit of a meat-head. So it is cool to see more and more guys going to yoga.  Although I don't see too many gym types in class, it's nice to see that guys are opening up to a healthier version of what it means to be strong.  And I can attest to the fact that yoga can be a little humbling to us macho men.  Like sometimes when I'm going into an advanced yoga posture that takes a lot of strength and I can't do it, but all the cute ladies around me are pulling it off with a relaxed expression on their faces, I don't really feel all that macho anymore. Maybe this is part of my evolution as a person and a man.

Here's looking at you kid.

Crystal Slater, owner of Your Yoga in Bozeman

Why Vegan?

As a vegan athlete I get a lot of questions regarding what I eat.  Especially because I live in meat Montana.  True I grew up on a farm and we had animals that we raised for food, but the reasons for being vegan outweigh any reason for ever eating meat, especially in today's world.  (are we paying attention to the economy, the environment, and the rise in western diseases like cancer?))))... at the present rate of disease growth in the US, if nothing is done to change the Standard American Diet (S.A.D.) everyone you know will die an untimely and agonizing death full of new and bizarre cancers.  SAD!!!  The real bizarre twist is that it is all easily preventable by making simple dietary choices.

My top reasons for being vegan:

#1 Personal health,,,,,,,,,,,  a proper vegan diet of organic fruits and vegetables, and not consisting of fast foods and processed foods is the healthiest diet available,,,, hands down.

#2 Planetary health,,,,,,,,,,, leading cause of western diseases is diet.... leading cause of man-made environmental problems is cows, chemicals, and big business agriculture. (that WE the consumers either pay for, or don't.  So who's in control here? Us or THEM?))))

#3 Performance and recovery from workouts,,,,,,,,, the vegan diet is the best performance diet available for sports.... the need for lots of protein is a myth created by the meat and dairy industry.  Just ask Scott Jurek, top ultra marathoner of all time, and Goran Kropp, the 6 foot 3 inch tall Swede that rode his bike to Mount Everest from Sweden and then climbed Everest and rode home; both vegans.  And a host of other top level athletes.

#4 Clarity and mental well being,,,,,, ever meet a fat, gun totting, angry vegan?  No really, I mean it.  Being vegan will improve not just your physical health, but your mental and spiritual health as well.  It's that easy.  All you need to do is make the first step.  The rest just falls into place.

#5 Being vegan is sexy,,,,,,  I smell better, my skin is soft and clean, my personality is FANTASTIC, and my vibe is electric; thanks to all the live foods I eat.

Raw Pizza!!!  The crust is a buckwheat and flax, with a cashew "cheese"
sauce.  Way better tasting, and better for you.

Homemade tortilla, made with red bell pepper, tomato, and avocado.
Super easy to make, and so good!!!

We are not in the middle of a nation wide epidemic of protein deficient vegans.  No it's the other way around.  We are in the middle of a nation wide health epidemic of overweight and malnourished S.A.D. eaters.  I mean how can someone who is overweight also be malnourished?  It's SAD.  It really is.  And it is totally preventable, and even reversible.  We just have to wake up to what is happening all around us and face the mirror of our discontent.